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When I began this newsletter I thought you might have been reading
it just a few days after I'd left on my annual pilgrimage to Thailand
and Wat Nong Pah Pong! But I never finished writing it in time and
now I've already been back for nearly a month. I like to go away
in early January to be at Wat Pah Pong, the principal monastery of
Ven. Ajahn Chah and where I was formed as a monk, in time for the
anniversary of Ajahn Chah's death on January 16th. To go back to Thailand is to nourish my roots and as all of you should
know, nothing's safe without strong and healthy roots. In the garden
at the Forest Hermitage after the wind and torrential rain at the
end of last year we have one young pine tree that's listing badly
and could come a cropper and all because its roots have not spread
and been well established. Our practice too can fall if it's not
well rooted. Look around the Buddhist world and you'll see what I
mean. The task we've set ourselves - the uprooting of greed, hatred
and delusion - is a difficult one, one for which we need all the help
we can get. One for which not only must we depend on our own growing
ability but one for which we benefit by the experience of those who've
gone before, the guidance of the scriptures and the accumulated wisdom,
weight and authority of tradition. So every year I return to the
North-East of Thailand, to Wat Nong Pah Pong to respect my late teacher,
to meet my friends and to nourish my roots. Shortly before I set off we had a surprise visit from Khun Charlee,
proprietor and master of the Artists' Place on the Thonburi side of
Bangkok. A few years ago a friend of his, the well-known writer and
broadcaster, Sathienpong Wannapok, who I have known since he was at
Cambridge thirty years ago, suggested that Charlee might like to sculpt
a Buddha Image specially for the Forest Hermitage. Charlee agreed
and set to work on what I remember Sathien describing to me as a fairly
modest sized image in fibre-glass. I don't quite know what happened
but the eventual result was a magnificent five-and-a-half foot image
cast in bronze and covered in gold-leaf. As you can imagine such
a size and weight posed certain logistical problems when it came to
moving it six thousand miles around the world to Lower Fulbrook and
so in the Artists' Place it stayed and every year when I went to Thailand
we talked about how to bring it here. Then suddenly last December,
quite out of the blue, Charlee phoned me from Scotland and announced
that his masterpiece was already at sea on board a certain vessel
that was due to dock at Southampton around the beginning of January
and he'd come to witness its arrival and inauguration At a quarter
past eight one Saturday morning, just two days before I was due to
fly to Bangkok and two weeks after Charlee had installed himself at
the Forest Hermitage, I strolled down our drive and found a lorry
drawing up outside with a massive crate on board and no lifting equipment!
Thankfully we had organised a few people to come over that morning
to help and they were joined by the builder and his brother who when
they arrived to mend the roof were quickly roped in to help. Will,
when I rang him with the news, was enjoying a lie-in but heroically
fell out of bed and into his car and was here in record time to lend
a hand. But it still took around two-and-a-half hours to get that
Buddha-Rupa off the lorry, up the drive and into the conservatory
end of the Shrine Room. And there it had to stay until I got back
from Thailand. Since when our previous principal Buddha-Rupa has
been moved into the small shrine room and the new one - Phra Buddha
Ņanajali - has been hoisted into place in the main Shrine Room. It's
magnificent and you would think, made to measure. The name, which
obviously includes a wordplay on the name of its creator, was chosen
by Sathienpong and means 'net of knowledge'. Well done Charlee!
And to Charlee and everyone who in any way helped the Phra Buddha
Ņanajali Image to come to Wat Pah Santidhamma, the Forest Hermitage,
a heartfelt ANUMODANA! I took off for Bangkok on Monday, January 12th and spent my first
night back in Thailand with Phra Maha Sompoch at his big old kuti
in Wat Thepnimitr at Chachoengsao. The next morning, Deht, who drove
me last year, appeared with a minibus courtesy of the ladies who own
the Home Plaza Property Company that he works for and we set off for
the North-East. There I joined the other five hundred and more monks
who were gathered to honour Ajahn Chah on the anniversary of his death
and afterwards the slightly smaller group of three hundred who made
the long, six hour journey to Udorn to respect Ajahn Maha Boowa, the
sole surviving disciple of Ajahn Mun. Unfortunately, Ajahn Maha Boowa
was unwell and unable to receive us personally. From there, leaving
the main contingent to the six hour drive back, I went on to spend
a few nights on a mountain in Sakorn Nakorn where one of my most favourite
monasteries, that of a friend of mine, Ajahn Tongjun, is situated.
I've been going there for about six years running and it's becoming
a custom every year for me to have to lead a long and well-supported
almsround in one of the local towns, this year with a four man police
escort! From there I drove back to Ubon and on to Numyeun to a warm
and enthusiastic welcome from Ajahn Dang with whom I used to live
many years ago and who has been both mentor and friend for much of
my bhikkhu life. From there we drove south, more or less parallel
to the border with Cambodia until we reached another branch of Wat
Pah Pong near Rayong, east of Bangkok. This wat occupies a large
chunk of one side of a fairly substantial mountain and from the higher
reaches where the new Uposatha Hall is being built, you can glimpse
the Gulf of Siam sparkling in the distance. There I was left alone
to do nothing. Even the Uposatha Day was relaxed and in the evening
it was so uplifting to sit with such an admirable company of monks
for the Patimokkha recitation. From there we headed west, zipping
through Bangkok on our way to Kanchanaburi and yet another branch
of Wat Pah Pong. This is the area best known to the British for the
infamous railway that the Japanese drove Allied POWs to build during
the Second World War. The wat I was heading for is past the town
of Kanchanaburi and well along the road that'll take you to Burma.
The next day we drove up to the border at Three Pagoda Pass along
a winding and precipitous route where every so often one's equanimity
was tested by some alarming overtaking! At Three Pagoda Pass the
official took one look at me and said something about it being more
than his job was worth to let me cross so all we could do was gaze
on the faraway Burmese hills and then return. I had to be back at
Chachoengsao that night in time for an important engagement the next
day and so after a quick cuppa Deht and I pressed on back east, stopping
only for a few minutes at the famous Bridge over the River Kwae.
During all this I didn't forget those who spend much of their lives
locked up and my appointment the next morning was with Khun Tirawat
Sucharitakul, Aide to HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindorn, who had
arranged for me to visit Thailand's largest women's prison in Bangkok.
The Governor herself received us and as we stepped into the main
compound we were met by a very smart woman officer who rapped out
a formal report on the state of the prison and informed us of the
presence of over three thousand prisoners. On my tour I was shown
just about everything and I was impressed by how spotlessly clean
the place was and how relaxed the atmosphere. I was able to talk
very freely with four Western women, including one British, all serving
very long sentences and all in remarkably good spirits considering
their predicament. Notably, they said that suicides just don't happen
there and that there's hardly any violence! I haven't the space here
for more on that prison and my tour of it but I hope to write it up
in more detail later. When she had our Angulimala organisation and
what I do in England explained to her, the Governor was interested
in having an Angulimala link with her prison. Next we paid a surprise
call on Charlee at his Artists' Place and met Sathienpong. Then the
next day, the last of this trip, I managed a visit to Thailand's only
forensic psychiatric hospital. It's not far from Buddha Montone,
an enormous park which lies on the western outskirts of Bangkok and
is set out like a mandala radiating from at its centre a huge and
magnificent Image of the Buddha Walking. I was fortunate in being
able to include a visit there and in an extraordinary coincidence,
only moments after we'd arrived and having left the car, begun walking
across to the main Image, the public address system began broadcasting
the biography of Ajahn Chah! In the evening we called on Khun Tirawat
and Khun Tipvadee and sipped tea in the cool of their twenty-second
floor apartment before speeding off to the airport and the flight
to London in the gracious care of Thai Airways International. Graham Clark,
former Governor of HMP Wandsworth, addressed the last Angulimala
Workshop. This was a very useful and supportive contribution and
I am grateful to Graham for sharing his time and knowledge. The current
Governor of Whitemoor will be speaking at the next one. Take care, keep smiling and stay happy!